One Life ...

Today, we ate our breakfast before our friend kindly offered 2 electric bikes for the day. However, we didn't accept as we enjoy walking the area and we would be restricted on some of the tricky routes. First we walked up into some pretty village areas with the guidance of a local dog. Next we traversed the valley in search of a little waterfall. We found one waterfall but the path to the other waterfall became quite steep and it looked a little tricky. We saw a few photos from people that had been but decided for us it wasn't worth it. It was fairly small and part of the route was walking through water which would be freezing. We met a couple who also decided it was too tricky for them and their beautiful husky. About turn and off through another village we went. We came across a wedding taking place and picked up a new ' dog guide'. We cut through fields of crops, along irrigation tracks and water channels until we reached a road. There was no route on our map but we ...

We started slightly earlier today but not much. I think we arrived at the breakfast cafe just before 10am. The usual please ... 5 minutes later it arrives. Maybe we are becoming locals! We chatted to our friend over breakfast and made a plan together to go to Deer Park. Deer Park is a training institute with short courses ranging from art to meditation. It has a monastery too, so we thought it would be a nice morning activity. We strolled the grounds, the organic vegetable gardens, library, chatted to the workers and had a guided tour by our friend, who knew the Director. We even played cricket in the garden. It was certainly a quiet, relaxing place. We then went for coffee at a larger hotel where our friend's shop is based. The coffee was nice and we even went without sugar, something that doesn't happen with our usual 10 rupee chai. We talked a lot before making a move towards Chauntra with further Tibetan monasteries. It was an hours walk all down hill with some beautiful sc...

Morning routine ...  Breakfast at the usual cafe, eating the usual aloo paratha, drinking the usual chai, speaking to the usual local people ... We walked to the main road and crossed to the other side. We walked along 10 minutes in search of the turning that would take us up to the Maheshwari Hindu temple on top of the hill. We took a wrong turn but joined a small path leading back to the route. We trekked up and up some more. We passed a few local ladies carrying huge bundles of fire wood on their heads. When we finally reached the top the views were magnificent. The temple was small and decorated with a huge TV/mobile phone antenna! The way down was quick and easy. We then searched for the small train station nearby. We found it by walking a short way along the track. We saw the platform and investigated closer. There was a small office with a sign saying the train was temporarily suspended.This is the picturesque Kangra railway and now there are no trains! Looks like our plan is fo...

A little delayed today. Last night a dog barked in the street for what seemed like eternity and then all then all the other dogs joined in! Sleeping was slightly tricky. Breakfast was our first stop. The usual please sir! We then headed off to a temple about 5km away. The route was really nice. Past small homes, across streams, butterflies everywhere, baby cows and amazing scenery. Idyllic! We made our way downhill, then up again and eventually found the huge monastery complex. Palpung Sherabling Monastery is a huge site and is a study centre for monks.  There are eight beautiful stupas lined with prayer flags along with many school buildings.  We entered one and were told it was the last day of teaching and all the students were receiving blessings.  We were allowed in to watch the ceremony. We stopped for a cup of chai in the grounds of the monastery.  When we paid the family running the little stall asked to have their photos taken with us.  We lined up and were joined by various pe...

Woke up, did a spot of laundry. Hot shower then breakfast! Aloo paratha and chai. Very nice and the tea tasted like it contained fennel. Temple tour around the village day. We spent the morning wondering through the village in search of temples. The village is really small and cute, it has many Buddhist monestaries that are very beautifully decorated. One had a lovely rose garden and a big beware of the dog sign! The afternoon we drank chai and more chai whilst sitting at a local cafe/shop. As creatures of habit we ate veg thali at our regular spot. It was, as always great and unlimited ...We chatted to an Indian man also touring Himachal Pradesh but he was a digital nomad, working as he completes his 2 month tour. Early to bed, early to rise makes you ... 

The dreaded alarm went off at 6.30. We quickly did our morning rituals and left with our bags packed. It was a short 10 minute walk to the bus stop. We wanted to get an early bus as we had a long journey ahead and we are never exactly sure of any bus timings, though we always ask about 10 people. 10 different answers come back our way! First bus came soon after we arrived at the stop and this took us down the mountain to Bhunter. We did get a little stuck when a big coach full of weekenders arrived from Delhi on a narrow section. Old school Indian bus driving featured heavily today. Slightly crazy, totally erratic. Next bus from Bhunter to Bir. More crazy driving but for a lot longer. We went through huge tunnels and in one of them a bus had stopped. We assumed it had broken down until we saw the front of it. There was a small car, well half a car embedded in the front. We couldnt see a lot but if anyone walked out alive, they were super lucky We pulled into Mandi for a short break. Th...

After our staple breakfast of aloo paratha and chai we headed for the little bridge over the river. Today we are heading in the opposite direction from yesterday, towards Chalal.  We walked along the river and soon were in the village which was full of guesthouses but not many people. A beautiful golden retriever came to greet us and decided he was coming with us.   We walked up and up past Chhalal and through other little villages.  We discovered at one village our new friend was called Leo and obviously well known.  He was a typical golden retriever, he would shoot on ahead and when he couldn't see us, he would come bounding back to find us.  He found some water in one village and immediately jumped in and splashed around. We met a few other trekkers on the way who were all heading to Rasoul.  This was quite a trek but they were all staying overnight.  As we had booked our accommodation in Kasol, we went half way and then turned back.  On the way we saw two man carrying mattresse...

A very quiet night last night. No loud, crazy techno, psyhco music or whatever it is that attracts people to Kasol. Just a good night's sleep! The morning started with our little chai man and we also ate one of his siddus too. Next we searched for the start of our trekking trail. We crossed the river and looked to the right for the path. A little confused because the path led to the left! We stopped for a while and checked Maps.me. No path in sight! Suddenly, 2 men appeared from the right clambering down a small cliff. We investigated a little closer and discovered this was indeed the path. The first part was a little tricky but it soon eased up and became a very pleasant walk along the river, amongst the forest with a few ups and downs. We walked through a small village, crossed a small river and were led most of the way by a variety of local dogs. A very beautiful walk and the reward was still to be had! The path led to the town of Manikaran, well known for its famous temples, Gu...

We woke up, showered in hot water (luxury) and waited for our friend, so we could say goodbye. We met our friend's dad on the balcony and he was very nice. Our friend turned up and had walked through the apple orchards from his house. He had to be at an important paragliding event at 11am but we just had time to visit our favourite cafe for breakfast. Chai and giant aloo paratha once again! After breakfast we were dropped at the Manali ISBT (bus station) and very quickly said goodbye bfore jumping straight on a bus to Kullu. We weren't exactly sure where we would end up today. It was a little far to Dharamshala and Kullu offered mainly tame white water rafting ... We drank tea at the Kullu bus station and made our choice to go to Kasol. Kasol has a reputation for hippies, people from Israel and non compliance. We had spoken to a few people and they had said that a lot of the hippies had moved out and the Israelis had gone home because of the war. Whether these particular non co...

A slow leisurely start to the day. It is cold in the mornings until the sun appears over the mountains. A few hours later and it is baking hot! We ate breakfast and drank tea at our usual spot before attempting to get help with topping up our Indian sim. Next we followed a track along the river heading to old Manali. We passed beautiful orchards, many homestays and it was a pretty trek.   We were accompanied some of the way by a beautiful dog.  When we stopped for a while, he stopped too.  When he decided it was time to carry on he came over and pawed us until we started walking again.  Very cute! We searched old Manali for hippies but all we found were hoards of Indian tourists. We drank chai, whilst accompanied by another lovely 'Louis' dog.  We visited temples and breezed past the many shops selling 'stuff'. Suddenly, we spotted a yak. It was in someone's garden and a huge hairy beast he was!   As we continued towards new Manali we spotted more. These were giving...

We awoke to beautiful sunshine and the amazing view of the snow capped Himalayas. We wrapped up warm and wandered down to the little cafe where we had dinner last night.  We ordered aloo paratha, our 'go to' breakfast.  However, today it was supersized.  At least double the size of normal and extremely tasty.  We washed this down with chai. We headed down through the village, across the bridge to the main road.  We walked a little way and then found the track which would lead us up the side of the mountain to a waterfall.  The views along the way were breathtaking.  It soon warmed up and off came out jackets, shortly followed by our long sleeved tops as by now it was t-shirt weather! We walked up and up and eventually found the beautiful waterfall.  We sat near the base on a big rock and enjoyed the view. The next part of the trek was downwards toward the river and then back up the otherside. We walked through a little village and chatted with an Indian man and a Russian girl w...